There are easy routes in difficult countries, fun routes in complicated countries, and bored routes in attractive countries... Everything, always from our most subjective point of view, depending on the moment in which we live, according to our sensations and perceptions. About our last adventure, we could say that Nepal has been an easy and pleasant country with a complicated route, above all, due to the season and the weather of the year, in the middle of wintertime.
The Annapurna circuit, in bikepacking mode, has led us to pedal up very steep ascents and dream trails, to sleep with a lot of clothes on, to eat “dalbhats” and “momos” every day, to drink countless coffees with milk, to be speechless with the magnitude of the mountains, to be covered in dust from top to bottom, to warm ourselves in front of the wood-burning stoves, while talking to good-natured Nepalis, to push the bicycle with enthusiasm and to laugh when Ricard told me that the “Thorong La pass” was a mountain top full of cows.
ON THE FORTH DAY, we're set to cross the Thorong La pass, at 5,416 meters above sea level
At 4:45 am the alarm clock rings in our shanty at Thorong High Camp, after a night full of dreams and nightmares. We are not hungry. We had little breakfast (effects of height) and the journey of pushing the bicycles up the path with the light from the headlights began.
Negative 15 degrees and the wind is already strong. The hands begin to lose touch and the feet progressively. Four miscounted steps forward and we stop to move our body and limbs energetically. A ritual that we repeat throughout the climb. We have all our clothes on and we cannot afford to be colder. We have crossed the barrier of 5,000 meters high and the joy I feel when the sun caresses me is difficult to explain.
We continue pushing and now we need to put on our crampons. There is little snow but many sheets of ice. From time to time I look at the accumulated meters. Still missing. I mentalize that this winter experience must live with a little suffering, due to the lack of oxygen, but above all due to the icy cold that freezes even my soul. Finally, I raise my head and see some prayer flags that move to the frenzied rhythm of the god Aeolus. Mixture of emotions that will remain forever etched in my memory. Now "only" remains the descent and savoring our feat.
No more big mountains. The eight-thousanders are left behind since the fog does not allow us to see much beyond the track we are pedaling on.
We say goodbye to the highest concentration of mountains in the world: the imposing Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), in Sanskrit, white mountain; to the majestic Annapurna massif with Annapurna I (8,091 m) which stands out as the highest; al Manaslu (8,163 m), the mountain of spirits; to the Tilicho peak (7,134 m) or to Gangapurna (7,455 m).
After a few days we reach Pokhara, where the Annapurna circuit officially ends.
However, our route has not yet come to an end and we are preparing to return to Kathmandu through the Mid-Hills.
We cycled mostly on dirt tracks that cross rural Nepal and left a bit of God's hand
Tracks that allow us to observe the daily life of the Mid-hills, what we like so much when we travel on two wheels. Roads that at some point, they say, will be paved but today are nothing more than holes and potholes, with a mixture of sand, dust, mud and stones.
Paths that do not give up, physically, but do offer a space to let thoughts and soul flow
So we reached the center of Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, pedaling. The time has come to celebrate!
Finally, we cannot fail to explain that once again we are satisfied and happy with the choice of the Megamo Factory, since it could not be more successful. Its versatile character has allowed us to move safely on all types of terrain. Without a doubt, the Factory is a perfect bike for our bikepacking adventures, since it offers us lightness, resistance and comfort.
RIDERS: Ricard & Alba
TEXT: Alba
PHOTOS: Ricard
